My ancestors served in Lord Ogilvy’s regiment at Culloden and I once discovered an account of the interrogation of a young Ogilvy rebel among the records of Jacobite prisoners. He was quick to inform his tormentors that he was forced to serve, never wanted anything to do with it and just wanted to go home. Ah yes, definitely an ancestor.

The Jacobite rebellion is, of course, nowadays shrouded in romance and my guide for the day – a knowledgeable old school chum – points out that much of Scotland’s international attraction to tourists is down to fiction from that of the advocate Sir Walter Scott through Brigadoon to Diana Gaboldan, who was inspired by the nearby Clava Cairns to create her Outlander series of novels.

Drying out in the welcome warmth of McBain’s, we are joined by our other school pal, a former sergeant in the Royal Marines who has never lost his enthusiasm for fitness.

The set menu will do nicely at £21.95 for two courses.

I opt, a little apprehensively, for the pâté starter. Sergeant Rock joins me while our cultured guide chooses the prawns. Any concerns that my choice will be boring and bland is quickly dispelled with the appearance of a tranche of farmhouse-style pâté cooked in a wrap of bacon, garnished with salad and accompanied by an unusually tangy home-made chutney. The pâté is clearly made in-house, packed with flavour and perfectly complemented by the apricot, apple and cider chutney. But it is a plate that deserves more than two oatcakes! Meanwhile our guide is pleased with his prawns – a cut above the normal cocktail and it’s Marie-rose sauce offering. The crustaceans are bound in lemon & chive creme fraiche, cucumber and apple with a fennel and shallot dressing and are judged to be top ho.

In these health-concious days a bottle of wine is not on the cards but I try a glass of Hungarian red – Sebestyen Seb K sounds a bit ropey and is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, and Franc spiced up with a dash of Blaufrankisch, a grape prevalent in eastern and Central Europe . Happily, it proves immensley quaffable.

Conversation turns to our uncertain times with agreement reached on the unreliability of the US as an ally, the tendency of many in society to be aware of their rights but less keen to shoulder their responsibilities and a growing aversion to the doom and gloom news which consistently fails to highlight Britain’s positive achievements.

Sergeant Rock and I are on the same hymn sheet again when it comes to main courses. Chicken Milanese – a sort of veal Holstein without the veal. The chicken breast, in a crispy batter, is served atop a mighty serving of creamy mashed potato liberally studded with chives and topped off with a fried egg. It is adorned with rocket and Parmesan shavings and capers – with which the chef has gone a bit mad. Satisfying rather than refined, this dish is well-received. The tatties are particularly appreciated by two boys brought up in Dundee’s quaint suburb of Lochee.

Our refined amigo has chosen the fillet of sea bass. It looks impressive and the cauliflower puree works well with saute potatoes and the salsa verde and red wine syrup combination is said to be a lot better than it sounds. It is a well-conceived and inventive dish which perhaps doesn’t require the addition of prawns.

McBain’s scores well when you comes to quality, value for money and good service.

Out of sheer dedication to the reviewer’s craft, I select today’s special dessert. A whacking great sundae of vanilla cream, with peanut butter and salty caramel flavours, it also contains crunchy caramel covered popcorn – a touch of delicious genius.

We are transported back to Frankie Davey’s ice cream parlour in Lochee and days of paper rounds, damp tenements, outside toilets and zinc baths. The youngsters of today have it easy we conclude – surely the refrain of old codgers down the ages.

Verdict 8/10
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