Today’s lunch companion John Barnett, a contemporary who forged a successful career as an international banker armed with a law degree from Dundee University, is now resident in the leafiest part of the home of golf and explains, “St Andrews does not really cater for regular local diners but for transient visitors who will only go once anyway and are not price sensitive. Some places are real rip-offs.”

Happily, our choice - Dune Seafood Restaurant and Bar - is not in that category. It is a curious hybrid, however, with a popular lobster roll shack attached to the outside of the restaurant and an upmarket fast-food menu within, it is a good example of the sort of ingenuity required by restaurateurs to survive and thrive in today’s challenging times.

We opt for the à la carte menu, which promises fine dining, and order a bottle of Alvarinho, a citrusy, crisp Portuguese white which is not too acidic and a good partner for fish. There is no shortage of interesting starters on the menu, but we opt for Oysters and sort out the problems of the world as we wait.

John reflects on the city of London in its heyday when it served as the world’s laundromat for dirty money. Things have improved, but the glaring corruption of the Trump administration and the dodgy finances of some of our own politicians are as obvious as the thriving money laundering outlets on our benighted High Streets. All of this corruption is hiding in plain sight and flourishes not just because of a sclerotic political system, but also an enfeebled media.

We are heartened, however, that The Times has finally taken an interest in the finances of Mr. Nigel Mirage, the anti-elitist multi-millionaire, and his curious coterie. Investigative journalism is not rocket science, and we recall the injunction of ‘Deep Throat ‘, the informant in the Watergate saga, who urged Woodward and Bernstein to “follow the money”.

The oysters arrive and are adjudged to be very good. Two dressings are offered: a mignonette that is too sweet but also an interesting sea buckthorn and jalapeño blend which tickles the taste buds and is explained by our knowledgeable waitress.

For mains we choose sea trout and mackerel dishes. My confit sea trout is served with mussels and broad beans on a hollandaise bisque. It looks great and tastes great too. But strangely, no potatoes are on offer. Baby new potatoes would have been perfect. Instead, we make do with admittedly very tasty potato wedges - a reflection of the restaurant riding two horses.

John’s mackerel is served with hispi cabbage, tondo onion and white peach - an unusual and inventive combo. But elevating the humble mackerel is a hefty task, and John reports that his dish doesn’t quite make the cut.

But his dessert makes up for the disappointment, and the panna cotta topped with macerated strawberries is said to be excellent.

Verdict 8/10

www.dune-standrews.co.uk