Dining out: The Silver Darling sparkles in Aberdeen

Aberdeen is in the economic doldrums following the downturn in the North Sea, the current government’s reluctance to ‘drill baby drill’ and the failure of the city to diversify when it was rolling in big oil money.

Locals may bewail the state of Union Street but, in truth, it is little different from the hollowed out high streets of most Scottish cities and towns. And, among its splendid granite buildings, excellent art galleries and museums, Aberdeen does boast a decent restaurant scene.

Killjoy, my normally indigent luncheon companion, is in funds – unusual for a semi-retired antique dealer – and has announced that he is to be the donor of today’s delicacies in the city’s renowned ‘Silver Darling’ seaside restaurant.

Our taxi driver down to the old fishing village of Fittie where the ‘Silver Darling’ enjoys an unrivalled harbour-front location advises that the eatery, an institution in Aberdeen, is under new ownership.

In fact, the friendly waitresses reveal that it has been in the hands of the McGinty family for a decade prompting Killjoy to burst into song with a surprisingly word-perfect chorus of the corn-kister favourite McGinty’s Meal and Ale, a bothy ballad that is no longer politically correct or acceptable. And I have to remind him of the recent successful prosecution of a Crieff man for describing his traveller neighbour as a ‘tinkie’.

Unphased, Killjoy bashes on, his sale of a Georgian dresser means that he is in high spirits and we are to start proceedings with oysters at £4 each. Eagerly anticipated and to be enjoyed with a chilled Chablis, we opt for the natural option served with a mignonette of shallots and red wine vinegar. Oh dear, disappointment ensues. Killjoy, not known for concealing his displeasure, quickly announces, “Too small, too salty and too expensive.” No arguments there but the sight of oil rig supply vessels effortlessly gliding by and breakers crashing on the outer harbour walls quickly compensate.

The Chablis, a premier cru by Vincent Dampt, is next to underwhelm. It lacks the honeyed depth and sumptuousness we have come to expect of good white burgundies. This is hardly the fault of the Silver Darling whose excellent white wine list is put together by the well-regarded wine merchant Corney & Borrow and comes as a surprise from the usually excellent house of Dampt.

We both opt for the same starter of asparagus, Scottish gravadlax, poached egg and hollandaise sauce. Hooray! It is a fine-dining triumph. The asparagus is perfectly cooked, the gravadlax is understated and the luscious orange yolk of the poached egg is anointed with the buttery richness of a superb hollandaise.

Hopes are high for the main courses. I opt for the special of the day – Brill, a Turbot-like flat fish which is unusual to see on a menu, and is served on a bed of pea risotto. The Brill arrives rolled up atop the risotto, a nice presentation with the fish soft and flakey. The pea risotto is tasty and inventive.

Killjoy’s halibut with a wild garlic crust on a buttermilk and chive mash arrives just in time to rescue me from a monologue on the collapse of the antique brown furniture market. It comes with charred spring onions on a green pea vinaigrette and is judged to be a well-conceived and satisfying dish.

With some trepidation I order a sticky toffee pudding topped with vanilla ice cream and butterscotch sauce. It must be twenty years since I tasted this confection, then it was frequently banged down on the table – a half-brick of aorta-clogging gunge lathered in sugary brown glue. It is the sort of dessert more associated with pubs than restaurants but worries prove misplaced when a light slice of flavour-infused sponge arrives bathed in a delicate sauce and topped with a scoop of ice cream – not too much and just right.

Killjoy’s artisanal cheese is well-presented, if slightly on the small side. He mutters that he is not quite sure about the selection and proceeds to demolish the lot.

Happily devoid of ‘small plates’ , ‘sharing plates’ and ‘tasting menus’, The Silver Darling offers dining with a good beginning, middle and end – just like a good book or movie.

Would I return? Yes. With Killjoy – possibly not.

Verdict 7/10

The Silver Darling
North Pier Pocra Quay,
Aberdeen AB11 5DQ
Phone 1224 576229
https://www.thesilverdarling.co.uk