Where else but the legendary Buttery for this special night? Marooned amid housing developments and cut off from the city centre by motorways, this is Argyle Street, but not as we know it. The restaurant compensates for its weird, but original location, by providing a private car park – and a good thing too.

The ambience with subdued lighting, an impressive antique gantry, dark pannelling and pale tartan upholstery warmly embraces diners. The staff, supervised by an impressively moustachioed maître d’, are on the ball.

The days of savouring a fine Speyside malt before dinner are gone in these health-conscious times. So pre-prandial drinks are out, alas. We go straight to the wine and the list arrives promptly. But, for an establishment of such renown, I find the choice rather disappointing.

Yet, The Buttery, now styled The Two Fat Ladies at The Buttery, has been on the go since 1870 so they must know their market. I opt for one of the two French wines on the list of 12 reds. The Fleurie by Domaine Loron, is pricey at £55 but this reliable Beaujolais is a safe bet to go with most food choices.

No amuse-bouches are produced but we are quickly offered a choice of breads. I select the healthier looking of the two. A yellow curl of butter is duly larupped on the Cajun pepper bread. Blimey, this is one of the best things I’ve ever tasted – the spicy heat of the Cajun pepper and salty creaminess of the butter explode in the mouth. What a genius combination. I quickly request another slice!

My heart sinks as the wine arrives and is consigned to a nearby, but out of reach table to be dispensed by the waiter. In so many restaurants this is a conceit that never works. I underestimated the service at The Buttery, however. It is impeccable and our glasses are kept appropriately charged.

Conversation turns to the lamentable state of Scotland’s collapsing media in which plummeting sales and advertising have sounded the death knell for investigative journalism. Public and corporate life is overrun with charlatans, snake oil vendors and chancers of all hues. But who is holding the imposters to account?

We quickly move on to reminiscing about the heady, frequently hilarious, days of journalism in the eighties and nineties and of the great characters, so many of them lawyers and advocates, that we worked with. Where have all the characters gone? Over-regulation and box-ticking seems to have done for them – and for our famed long lunches.

My starter arrives – a lonely raviolo stuffed with lobster and crab served on a colourful bed of herbs and salad with crisped capers and crayfish is well presented and delicious – as it should be at £16. Marion declares that her whipped and grilled goat’s cheese with pickled shallots and marinated beetroot is an excellent plate of contrasting textures and flavours.

The Buttery’s take on Surf n’ Turf is Marion’s choice for her main. Seared prawns are bound together with a 7 oz fillet steak by a tasty ginger and soy sauce. Her knife glides through the steak which she judges to be of top quality. The accompanying prawn toast is a curious affair, a small brick which is set aside with the observation that it is too greasy. My chicken stuffed with haggis is ever so slightly dry – the tarragon and Arran mustard butter comes to the rescue, its a pity there’s not more of it. The bacon and maple crumb which tops the chicken tastes of nothing much at all. This is not a dish that sets the heather on fire.

Marion reports that her sumptuous looking trio of home made ice creams in a brandy snap basket doesn’t quite live up to appearances – good but not sensational.

All this talk of the eighties sparks a thought – do people still drink Irish Coffee? I don’t see it on the menu but the moustachioed one soon rustles up the needful. Oh God! How did we actually drink this stuff with such abandon? I set the sickly sweet concoction aside – nostalgia is not what it used to be.

We enjoyed The Buttery but the food has a little catching up to do, if it is to match the excellent service and welcoming ambience.

Verdict: 7/10
twofatladiesrestaurant.com