To run a thriving village pub in this day and age is no mean achievement, so it is heartening to find the pub and its dining rooms busy on Remembrance Sunday with dog walkers and their pets enjoying the warm embrace of a roaring wood-burning stove as we enter the bar. The owners of the Boar’s Head cover all the bases with a community pub that has become a foodie destination with rooms. The 300-year old Inn has been sensitively redeveloped to a high standard and is now a well-appointed howff.

We are led to our table by a cheerful Lithuanian lady and we note that after our two-hour slot, a card on the table advises us of two further bookings. This a well-organised and slick organisation.

Our order is quickly taken, the ladies opt for a vegetarian starter of roast beetroots, goat’s curd and toasted hazelnuts while John and myself choose the smoked haddock croquettes with lemon mayonnaise.

A bottle of Côtes du Rhône is selected from a wine list that underwhelms and a challenge is issued: “Name four things Auchtermuchty is famous for.” Answers – home of accordion-playing band leader Sir Jimmy Shand, birthplace of The Proclaimers, film set for Tannochbrae in Dr Finlay’s Casebook … Erm can The Proclaimers count as two?

Oh well, the starters arrive and the beetroots are promptly declared a well-presented and tasty triumph. In contrast, the presentation of the croquettes is stark – a dollop of lemon mayonaise flanked on each side by a single croquette. It is a dish screaming out for a garnish of pea sprouts. The croquettes could also do with a little more fish content and are slightly too heavy on the potatoes.

As we appreciate the tasteful surroundings and marvel at the investment on display, our main courses arrive. Oh, Oh! Large Yorkshire pudding alert! So often in modern cuisine the iron law of Yorkshire puddings dictates that the larger the pudding the smaller the portion of beef. And so it comes to pass. The two slices of pink but finely sliced beef are more suited to a sandwich filling than a roast beef lunch. To add insult to injury, the slices are laid upon a bed of mashed potato conveying the impression of a healthier ration. I’m getting a bit sick of all this malarkey. This year I have been served a seafood vol-au-vent bulked out with concealed baby potatoes and fish and chips with a potato fritter wedged under the haddock to boost appearances. It is insulting and not fooling anyone.

I think that the beef probably is of good quality but its just too skimpy a portion to properly taste. Maybe it’s just me – the lad from the Broch is positively ecstatic about his roast hogget and our resident vegetarian is delighted with her main course of vegetarian haggis and vegetarian gravy. Crisply cooked vegetables and an excellent side of caulifower cheese are perfectly done.

I’m a little apprehensive about my dessert of tarte Tatin which can be a bit stodgy but these caramelised apple slices on a light puff-pastry base, perfectly topped off with a boule of rum and raisin vanilla ice cream are just right and more reminiscent of a tarte fine aux pommes. John is equally pleased with his coconut rice pudding and caramelised rum pineapple.

The Boar’s Head is worth a second visit.

Sunday lunch – 3 courses: £42
7/10